Jasmine in perfumery
Jasmine Grandiflorum
Native to Egypt or India, this white flower with 5 star-shaped petals is found at the heart of great masterpieces of perfumery... and of course, in several of our creations because some of you are addicted to it and mention it in your brief on the app 😉
🤏Very fragile, the flowers are hand-picked from 4 a.m., from June to October. They are immediately poured into an extractor to preserve their quality to give a concrete, then washed with alcohol which results in a dark orange absolute.
💶It only takes 800 kg of flowers to obtain 1 kg of absolute...
👃Jasmine Grandiflorum absolute has fruity, floral and green notes, with spicy and slightly indole facets.
Jasmine Sambac
This flower with 6-8 petals cultivated in India, China and the Himalayas has inspired perfumers as well as pastry chefs!
🤏 As with the Grandiflorum, the fragile flowers are hand-picked very early in the morning. The only difference is that the flower is harvested in its bud stage to open during the day.
The flowers are passed through an organic solvent (hexane) to produce the concrete, then washed with alcohol which, once evaporated, reveals the absolute.
💶 The yield is much better than with grandiflorum… No, in reality, it takes 700 kg of flowers to obtain 1 kg of absolute!
👃 Solar, radiant, but warmer and more opulent than Grandiflorum, Sambac jasmine has a greener top note (evoking banana peel) and a higher amount of indole. This molecule with animal facets makes it closer to orange blossom absolute.
A personal jasmine
What makes bespoke creations so exciting is how a simple note, like jasmine, can conjure up a whole world of memories, images, or dreams.
Behind every mention of "jasmine" in a brief, there is an intimate interpretation, sometimes linked to a real flower, sometimes to an impression, an atmosphere, a place, or even a person. And this interpretation becomes an integral ingredient in the creation of the perfume.
Jasmine perfectly illustrates this process: many don't distinguish between grandiflorum and sambac, but know precisely what they are trying to evoke. It's not the variety that matters, it's the emotion it conveys.
Exploring these memories, putting words to the sensations, the settings and the moments associated with this flower allows us to create a perfume that is just right, faithful to what we want to express.
There is not just one jasmine, but as many jasmines as there are memories.
The Jasmine Illusion
✨To evoke a jasmine faithful to your universe, we use the two natural absolutes — Grandiflorum and Sambac — but also a palette of molecules chosen for creative (and sometimes budgetary) reasons, which extend or reinterpret its facets:
▷ Benzyl acetate : sweet and fruity floral note, slightly balsamic which brings roundness and fluidity to the accord.
▷ Hedione : transparent, fresh, airy and slightly green note, essential for diffusion and the sensation of wet petals.
▷ Indole : a natural component of jasmine, essential for its realism, with its animal, sensual, almost musky touches.
▷ Methyl anthranilate : sweet, floral, slightly almondy note, reminiscent of creamy orange blossom.
▷ Hydroxycitronellal / Florhydral : brings floral facets of lily of the valley and lilac, with fresh, watery, rounded, and sometimes soapy touches. There are also aldehyde accents, green citrus notes, and a very subtle melon base.
…and many more, which we carefully choose based on the olfactory universe you wish to explore in your jasmine creation.
Jasmine in Superfumista perfumes
In our collection, jasmine is used in the formulation of two of our creations.
Tuberotic features a tuberose stem supported by a complicit Grandiflorum jasmine and notes of black tea.
Oud Galant where the absolute of Indian Grandiflorum jasmine brings a floral touch that is both characterful and delicate to the woody and smoky facets of Siam Oud, also softened by notes of iris and violet.
